A Raised Garden Bed, Because I Guess it's Really Not Going to Snow this Year

I was going to call that picture, "A quick and easy garden bed" or something of the sort. But then we spent all weekend on it, and then I realized I had something like 22 pictures for this post, and.....I decided to just go with the more correct "simple."

The weekend, to be fair, was tainted by illness and filled with performances of Aladdin, but still...this took longer than I expected. But not because it was hard, just because there more steps/trips to Home Depot involved than we had really fully grasped. At any rate...here's the story of our simple garden bed.

I've mentioned before that our old house was on a very heavily wooded acre of land. Trees and moss and assorted ferns did just great there, but anything else was a challenge. The only spot that got any sun at all was  in our front yard, right by the road (where they'd had to cut trees down to, you know....make the road), so we put up a little picket fence and put some beds down behind it, and some years we managed to eke out a semi-decent harvest on the 4 or so hours of sun we got a day in the middle of summer. Attempts to expand beyond basic vegetable gardening inevitably ended in failure. Blueberries, apple trees, rhubarb....sad, sad sunless failures.

So I was pretty excited about the possibilities that our new, almost completely treeless, more or less flat, ridiculously sunny and hot half acre offered us. We didn't move in until mid May last year, so we didn't manage to get anything planted last summer. But this summer I'm determined to do...something. I tend to be a very enthusiastic and ambitious gardener in the planning stages and a very lazy one when it comes to the execution, so I prudently decided to start small. Specifically, I'm aiming for this one garden bed, maybe another row of tomatoes somewhere, and a few blueberry bushes (if it's not already too late to plant them; I keep meaning to check). And between that and trimming the bushes out front, I think I'll be sufficiently overwhelmed for this year.

In the past we've always done four by four foot beds, for this is what the author of our favorite gardening book, Square Foot Gardening, tells us to do. But this time we decided to get all crazy and do an eight by four foot one instead, mostly because it would use less wood and save us a little money.

(Incidentally, my friend Tracy asked me why we're doing a raised bed at all, as opposed to just planting stuff in the ground. And my answer is....uhh, I'm not really sure. Because that's the way we've always done it? Soil around here tends to be pretty terrible...all red clay. But, I mean, stuff DOES grow in it. And one can always mix in compost and such. At any rate, I think we're going to experiment with digging up some actual ground, too, and see how things compare. Although I like the way neat little rows of raised beds LOOK, too).

We decided on cedar for the wood, in hopes that it will last longer than cheaper pine. We bought two eight foot, 1 by 6 planks and then Dave and his helpers sawed one of them in half to make the shorter ends:

This is right after Dave told them, "remember: turn your heads because I don't have enough safety goggles for everyone." Umm....yeah, maybe time to buy more safety goggles. But they were fine.

I bought Dave a Kreg Jig for Christmas, and this was the first project he used it for. So before things could progress, he and the kids had to spend some of Saturday morning watching the DVD it came with. This was way shorter than I feared; they even had time to watch some of the advanced parts. Building a garden bed isn't advanced, but now they're ready for anything:

Then back down to the basement to drill our first ever pocket holes!

Dave says that, although he likes his Kreg Jig, he doesn't think using it for this job was really any better than just screwing it together the old fashioned way. Oh well. At least now he knows how to use it.

We took the boards outside to put them together. It was a lovely day. Once you have your pocket holes drilled, you just use your Kreg screws and attach the boards together (or you just screw the boards together into a rectangle, if you're skipping the Kreg Jig part):

The dogs really like the garden bed. They appreciated the scent of cedar, apparently:

It was not as sturdy as we had hoped after this step (in fact, it, uhh....fell apart and required new pocket holes and reassembly at one point), so Dave reinforced the corners by screwing in some little blocks of scrap wood:

And then it was finished!

....except that garden beds don't do you much good if you don't plant a garden in them, so, really, we had to keep going.

We went to Home Depot and bought lots of garden soil and top soil and compost (this is the part where you remember how expensive making a raised bed is. Of course, you only have to buy it the first year; after that you just mix in compost and you're good). Mel Bartholomew, of Square Foot Gardening fame, recommends a mix of vermiculite, peat moss, and compost. But we've spent too many hours in past year looking all over for vermiculite, so we decided to just go with what they had at Home Depot instead.

We lined the bottom of the bed with cardboard to help keep weeds under control:

And then we added all the dirt:

The baby took a nap while Gable babysat:

And Ari was still sick:

This is the point where we sometimes, in years past, might have gotten lazy and started putting seeds in. But Mel says you don't really have a square foot garden at all if you don't section your squares off somehow. So, to make Mel happy, we made a grid of square feet out of twine:

(the book gives you all the details about how many of each kind of vegetable you can plant per square foot).

Some plants are supposed to grow up some netting to save space. We have some frames for the netting, made out of metal pipe and elbow brackets, saved from our old garden. Dave hammered some rebar into the ground and put the frame over it:

Planning this part is when we realized the disadvantage of an 8 by 4 bed. We'd originally planned to have the bed going the other way and have TWO of those frames on the fence side of the bed (the fence is on the north, so we want the tall plants there so they don't block the sun). Only then we realized that would make some of the inner squares hard to reach (I had to actually draw a picture and start planning what to plant in each square before I realized this). Our solution is only doing one frame and then maybe putting in a few more tomatoes (one of our frame growers) somewhere else. I don't mind this so much, because I noticed that they have purple tomato cages at Home Depot. And I'm not too broken up about having an excuse to buy purple tomato cages.

Then it was finally time to start planting! We're still working on this part (and it's too early for some stuff still), but we planted the strawberry plants that we bought at Home Depot and three squares of carrot seeds (16 per square):

And then all that remained was the watering!

Gus keeps asking what we're going to plant tomorrow. Let's hope his enthusiasm is still there when it's 98 degrees in July and it's time to go weed!

Linking with:
It's a Spring Thing Link Party
Monday Funday
Under the Table and Dreaming's Sunday Showcase Party
Give Me the Goods Monday
Tutorials and Tips at Home Stories A to Z
Tutorials, Tips, and Tidbits at Stone Gable
Hookin' Up With House of Hepworths
The Inspiration Gallery
The Shabby Nest's Frugal Friday
Weekend Wrap Up Party at Tatertots and Jello
Osie Moat's Link Up Party
Summer Spruce Up Series

DIY Steps for Amateurs--by Dave!

Dave takes a lot longer than I do to finish a blog post, but he's also a lot more thorough. These steps were finished awhile ago. And still standing! Who knows if my mobile will have long since fallen on the baby two months from now.... --Gretchen

This is a momentous occasion ... my very first blog entry!  Gretchen has wanted me to post about my home improvement projects for a while and, now that I'm off for Christmas vacation, I might get one or two of them done.

One of the things we knew about The Boxy Colonial when we bought it was that the back of the house was kind of a mess.  There's a screened in area that's against the kitchen and seems sturdy enough, but with gaping holes in the screens.  There's also an open deck (good for grilling!) off of that.  This part seems homemade and ... not sturdy enough.  We still need to do something about that.  And then there were the stairs down to the back yard.  Every time someone got on them, I crossed my fingers that they didn't collapse.

I am not a handyman.  This house is starting to change that, but I'm still very much a novice at building stuff.  In October, after fairly successful attempts at building a fence around the backyard (huge project) and a dog gate between the sun room and kitchen (tiny project), I set out to replace the back steps.  While small in size compared to the 6-foot privacy fence, there's a certain amount of precision involved in making steps that you don't necessarily need for a fence.  I was a little nervous of getting half way through, screwing up something royally, and having to eat the cost of the destroyed material and pay a professional to do the job.

The demolition is always the most satisfying part of these sorts of jobs.  I've always thought so when I watch HGTV, and now I have first hand experience.  My boys and some of their friends helped out.  We didn't get a good "before" shot of the steps, but here's with the railing off and some of the treads.

You can see the brick path that the stairs are resting on.  Let me clarify that ... The right stringer is resting on the bare ground just to the right of the brick path.  The left stringer is resting on a chunk of 4x4 post that's resting on the the 4x4 post that you can see running along side the bricks.  There are all sorts of nails at weird  angles holding everything in place, but the 4x4 frame of the path had broken under the weight of the steps.  This is the main source of my fear of lawsuits.

There's nothing more manly than a crowbar.

This is the best shot I could find of the stringer being supported by the block.  See it next to Gus' feet?  That was the original builder's solution for making a level surface.  Nice.

I had a rough time getting the steps detached from the porch.  The nails were those twisty types that really don't want to come out at all.

I decided to use the weight of the steps to help me out.  Judo style ... use the strength of your opponent to defeat him.  I lifted from the bottom step, raised it up above my head, and dropped it.  Success!  The entire structure got ripped out of the porch.

Well, not the whole structure.  See the leftover stuff?  Still lots of gnarly gnails to pry out of wood.  I got some of them out by hammering from the back side, but it was way too hard to do.  So on my first (of many) trips to the Home Depot, I bought this:

Ridgid Cordless Oscillating Multi Tool

Except I've decided to stop buying battery powered tools (I hate waiting for batteries to charge), so I got the corded version.  That was $129 instead of $99.  It's a neat tool that can be different things depending on the attachment.  The starter kit comes with an oscillating saw that can be used to cut nails (sweet! That's what I needed for this stage of the project!), some other small precision saw, and a sander.  The HD was having a sale where you can get one attachment free ($50 value!) and I decided to get the power nailer ... seeing as how I would be doing lots of nailing in the near future.

With the old stairs gone, I had to decide how to deal with the brick path.  It's hard to figure out the history of additions on this house, but at some point, the brick path must have ended at the bottom of a flight of stairs that have long since been torn down.  There's a nice level cement block at the end of the brick path ... this is directly below the door to the screen porch.  So I guess they extended the porch at some point, pushing the steps 7 feet down the brick path.  Instead of dealing with the unlevel surface, the aforementioned shoddy block leveling technique was implemented.

I didn't want to spend a lot of energy tearing up the path, but as it turned out, I didn't have to.  The bricks were so old, I was able to pull them up by hand with no trouble.  Now I have a bunch of extra bricks - score!

The 4x4 posts that lined the path were still in the way, though.  I have a Skil Saw, but that doesn't cut deep enough for the 4x4s.  I was able to cut through most of it, but a good inch of solid wood still stood between me and an obstacle-free surface for my stair landing.  Enter the jig saw.  I used that to cut down to the ground on both sides.  Perfect!  Except the jig saw blade wasn't long enough to get all the way to the middle of the 4x4.  So I had an almost completely detached piece, but there was still a little square of solid wood in the bottom middle of the beam that was inaccessible.  Enter the kid's Red Toolbox hand saw.  I don't have my own non-power saw, but the kids got one for Christmas last year and it was exactly what I needed to finish the job.  Finally I had a clear patch of ground to have my stairs land on.

I considered pouring a concrete slab to make it nice and level, but opted to be lazy and ... not.  Instead, I bought some cement blocks from the HD - 3 of them at 16 inches wide a piece, and created a level surface using those.  In retrospect, I probably should have poured the slab.  A neighbor friend who is full of advice, whether I want it or not, said that over time the weight of the stairs will make my blocks sink.  His solution to fix my mistake is to hammer a bunch of rebar at weird angles going underneath the blocks, then pour cement around the ends that are poking up.  I may do that at some point.  I guess maybe I'll post about it, too.  I'm not holding my breath, though, and neither should you.

The darker cement block is not there for support ... obviously.  I just put it there to hold the dirt under the other blocks in place.  I guess there's a good argument to pour cement around the base.  Another good argument is that the first step is too high when you add the extra height of the blocks.  Sigh.

Remember that I basically have no idea what I'm doing?  With that in mind, I found many tutorials online.  I found this guy who I liked from Makena Built and decided to use it as my step building bible.  I watched these a few times before buying any material or tools.

How to calculate, layout and build stairs - Part 1 of 3

Part 1 was pretty straightforward. It goes through the calculations of exactly how to measure the wood before cutting it. Since I already had existing steps, that made it a lot easier. But watching this guy go through his specific calculations was still useful for me. In my case, I needed 8 steps with a 7 1/8 inch rise and 10 inch run. From 8:20 to 8:50 he talks about boards that will be used to nail the steps to the landing (in my case, the screen porch) and the deck (in my case, the cement blocks). So he's building interior steps and has a nice, level wood floor to work with. Since I have cement blocks instead, I decided to ignore the part about being able to lock the bottom of the stringer in a nice sturdy fashion. I understand that there are tools that screw into concrete, but I decided to cut a corner here and have the steps just resting on the concrete. I'll let you know how that goes...

How to calculate, layout and build stairs - Part 2 of 3

Part 2 showed the dude actually cutting the first stringer. I liked the use of a carpenter square and stair knocks. I don't know if I'll ever use the knocks again, but they were like $3 so no biggie. I made my first stringer the way he instructed. Very smooth and easy. At 5:05 he talks about knocking off some amount for his ledger. I did this, too, but I wish I hadn't. My ledger ended up going higher than the top horizontal stretch of stringer. I didn't cut it down because I wanted to maximize the surface area I could use to attach the stairs to the porch. What didn't occur to me until later was that my treads lost 1.5 inches. So to avoid a dangerous amount of tread overhang, I cut the extra 1.5 inches off and now the top step is a little too narrow. I haven't noticed the discrepancy when using the stairs, but it's ugly when you look at it closely. So I try not to.

Anyway, at about 6:00 you can see how a professional uses a saw. What took him approximately 90 seconds took me about 20 minutes. I was a little more careful of my fingers. And I was cutting 8 rises, not 5. Anyway, a neat tip with the jigsaw at 7:55. I did that and I feel cool because of it.

How to calculate, layout and build stairs - Part 3 of 3

Part 3 begins with the four stringers already attached by the ledger and floor board. At 0:53 he talks about a strong backer.  I skipped this step since mine are exterior steps.  Notice that, at 2:00, he pulls out a hammer to lightly tap one of the middle stringers so the top is flush with the ledger.  Apparently, he is much better at precision cutting than I am.  He must be a professional or something.  When I tried doing this, I wacked the heck out of my middle string and for the life of me could not get it to fit.  There was a good half-inch of underhang.  Unacceptable!  I ended up pulling out the Skil saw and shaving parts of the middle stringer down until it fit.  That took a lot longer than the 45 seconds shown in the video.  But eventually, I had a similar structure to the one found at 2:45.  (I used deck screws instead of nails because I don't own a nail gun.  The power nailer attachment for the Ridgid tool isn't really powerful enough to use like that.)  My steps are only 3 feet wide, so I only had three stringers instead of his four.  Even so, I found the thing to be crazy heavy and very hard to get into the right place.  I was sorely wishing I had another non-pregnant adult around to help with the positioning of this beast.  But I managed.  Professional Man made it look pretty easy, but keep in mind that I'm a math teacher, not a construction worker.  And I had pressure treated lumber, which I assume is A LOT heavier.  And if you think about it, 8 rises times 3 stringers is 24, where 5 rises times 4 stringers is only 20.  So I was carrying 20% more wood that Professional Man.

Since I wasn't fastening the bottom of the steps to anything, I wanted to make sure the top was very secure.  Instead of just nails/screws into the side board of the deck, I used these angled metal braces that seem to be made for just such an occasion.  Something kind of like this angled metal bracket.  Although it seems to be upside down in this picture.

Now that the stringers were attached to the porch, it was a simple matter of nailing the deck board treads on, right?  Nope.  Remember how I had to finagle the middle stringer so it would fit in the frame between the floor board and the ledger?  Well, the three stringers weren't all level anymore.  The bottom step was fine, but there was an ever increasing see saw effect as the treads made it up the stringers.  I was rather dismayed and didn't know what to do.  At first I thought I had to shave down the middle stringer on every run, but my level revealed that the middle and left stringers were good and the right string was too short.  I'm not sure how that happened, but I REALLY didn't want to shave down two stringers.  Instead, I went for a cheesy shim solution.  Can shims be 1 inch thick?  Mine are.  They'll have to do.

This picture shows the 3 angled brackets holding the stringers.  You can also see one of the the thickest shims under the top step on the right.  You can also see how I needed two 2x4 backers.  Just one would not give me enough surface area to attach to the porch.  The top backer is why I had to shorten the depth of my top step :(  Two flat brackets are there to help keep the top backer to the bottom - without those, I don't believe the top backer would have been attached to the steps at all.  I guess a 2x6 backer would have been a better solution.  So many mistakes!

The power nailer got some serious use during the tread attaching.  That was pretty fun.  It's not that much better than a hammer, but it does reduce the chance of finger injuries and bent nails.  I was glad to have it for so many nails.  Two treads per step, two nails per stringer, eight steps and three stringers total ... we're talking 96 nails.  I wouldn't pull the tool out for a small number of nails, though.

At this point, the Makena tutorials had taken me as far as they could.  I still needed the railing, but I guess that part is fairly self explanitory.  Four 4x4 posts (two per railing), four 2x4 boards, and a bunch of ballasters (32, I think).  The bottom posts are a little wobbly because I didn't bury them - I thought the massive lag screws would be enough, but was wrong.  The top posts are attached to the stringers and the post with perpendicular lag screws, so they're pretty sturdy.  I cut a pyramid on the top of each post to encourage rain water drainage - an added bonus, I like the feel of the softer angles.  I just set the angle of the Skil 30 degrees off the standard perpendicular cut and made one cut per side, 2 inches down.

The right railing is about two inches taller than the left one.  When I put that one up, some of the ballasters didn't quite make it down to the steps.  Gretchen is sad about this and eventually I will lower it to match the other one.  But it's not a priority at this point...

Completed steps!



I'm happy with the end result.  Hiring professionals would have been much faster (this was a four weekend project for me) and given me nicer steps.  But I'm still glad to have had the experience building them.  They're certainly better than the old ones and it was good to save the money.

Fire Pit Weekend Revealed!

Our yard is very big (we have a half acre lot) and very empty. We have the only non-wooded lot in the (small) neighborhood. The story we got from neighbors is that a tornado a few years back hit our house and took out a bunch of trees, and the former owner went with clearing out the whole backyard as the least expensive way to clean things up.

It's a huge change from the super wooded lot at our old house. I'm excited about the possibilities involved with gardening with the help of actual sunlight, but truth be told the totally empty yard was kind of....boring. It's not even especially useful as a flat surface for, like, sports and stuff (you know, if we were a sporty people), because there are all kinds of surprising dips and holes where trees used to be, excellent for spraining ankles.

We have a dome climber, like this one:

I thought it would get more use from our older kids than a swingset, and then I found a great deal on one on Craigslist and snatched it up. So picture a giant, flat, grassy yard with a dome climber in one corner. That's what we had.

Until today!

We had a cheap little metal fire pit from Wal-mart or wherever that we used on the driveway at the old house. The kids have always LOVED having fires (and the accompanying marshmallows); firepit evenings often started with marshmallows and ended with kids running around catching fireflies and all that sort of thing. So idyllic!

So I knew I wanted a more substantial/permanent/pretty firepit here. I did my usual Pinterest research:

http://www.diynetwork.com/outdoors/8-easy-to-build-fire-pit-designs/pictures/index.html

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,1636191,00.html

And settled on this $30 firepit from Always Chasing Life as my primary inspiration.

Ours was more than $30, for a few reasons. For one thing, we lacked a nice patio to put it on, so we decided to clear out a circle in the yard and put gravel down first. And we wound up with slightly more expensive stones, for reasons that I will reveal as our story continues.

Okay! Firepit weekend arrived, and we headed off to Lowes, where we discovered that they were having a 20% off sale on landscaping stones! What luck!

We picked out this pea gravel to use as the base. We wound up with 22 bags (and could probably use a couple more for better coverage) at  $3.37/bag (after our 5% Lowes card discount), already blowing a $30 budget out of the water. But cheaper than a patio!

We were planning to get these "castle blocks:"

....but then Dave did some fancy mathematical figurin' about radii and whatnot and decided that we could make a smaller circle by buying the more expensive (but also prettier) flagstone. In the end, we decided that the castle block would probably have been fine; Dave didn't really think about how in firepit building, unlike in geometry, you can play around with the spacing between the blocks and make circles smaller with barely noticeable aesthetic ramifications.

I'm glad we went with the flagstone, though; I'm very pleased with how it looks.

I'm conflating various Lowes trips, interrupted by sleep and eating and birthday parties and August's performance as Colonel Hathi in The Jungle Book, for the sake of the narrative. Had we bought everything at once, it would have killed the minivan, I think. In the end, though, we bought 22 bags of pea gravel and 30 flagstones, at $1.86 each.

We came home with all the stuff and set to work. We even had an extra kid over for the afternoon, so we got him going with some manual labor, too:

Helping!

Resting!

By the way, see that fence? My husband built that fence all by himself! Well, my brother helped with digging the post holes. But, mostly, all by himself. Which took a long time and was a sucky job, and saved us a bunch of money, and looks AWESOME. Go Dave! (not that crappy fence along the back; that was already there. That's the fence The Beagle sneaks out under whenever she gets a chance. Not Dave's fence; it's like Fort Knox, I tell you!)

Digging the circle was the most time consuming and unfun part. But then came....the gravel spreading!

And then....the rock stacking!

Dave took all the dirt/grass he dug out of the circle and piled against the crappy fence for Beagle-proofing purposes:

I am, again, condensing for dramatic effect. The whole process took parts of 3 days, start to finish, although only a substantial part of the first day. It probably could have been completed in one long day, had that been absolutely necessary. Really, the part he did today took about 15 minutes (finishing stacking the stones from the last minivan-load).

We opted for cheapo plastic Adirondack chairs. We wanted 6 of them, and paying for six nice chairs just wasn't going to happen. It being the end of the season and all, white was the only color Lowes had left. We have big plans to spray paint them and make them more beautiful, though. Sometime.

The finished project:

And here it is in action:

Fire! Pretty!

So there you have it. Total, more than $30, cost: $129.94 for the gravel and flagstones, plus another $102.48 for the Adirondack chairs.

Editing to add.....the metal bowl is just the bowl from our old firepit, recycled. In case anyone was wondering :)

Linking with:
Summer Spruce Up Series

Fire pit sneak preview

You know what you need when you're digging a circle for a fire pit? The most important part? A beagle.